Hunkadora These small cheeses are a riff on a French Selles-sur-Cher, another Loire Valley bloomy rind style. They have a layer of flavor-neutral vegetable ash in the rind. Traditionally, the ash was used to protect the paste of the cheese before the rind developed. The ash also plays a role in the maturation of the cheese, since it is chemically a base, and the paste is acidic. These have a more robust and complex flavor than the Candide, with a lingering cream flavor accented by citrus, grass, and a delicate funk. They were featured on the menu at the 2014 James Beard Foundation journalism awards dinner.